For those of you wondering if Kawasaki might someday one-up Suzuki's Hayabusa in the displacement and horsepower categories, here is your answer.
Yes.
Kawasaki just announced the 2006 ZX-14, the most powerful Kawasaki ever.
Below is Kawasaki's press release on the ZX-14.
Quarter-mile junkies can start salivating.Sleek aerodynamics, unmatched power, acceleration, and stability combine to provide balance to company’s latest flagship.
If ever a brand of motorcycles was defined by the sheer power emanating from its long history of record-breaking sportbikes, Kawasaki would hold that mantel. If ever a brand would be expected to rightfully incorporate the meaning of the word “ultimate” into its newest flagship street carver, Kawasaki fits the bill. That’s just what the company has done with the Ninja® ZX™-14, a 1352cc motorcycle that is its most powerful ever, and succeeds in setting the performance standards for others to follow.
Kawasaki engineers and designers have created a motorcycle that turns its Ram Air and fuel-injected engine into the core of a powerful, torque-producing, aerodynamic stunner that will draw attention from onlookers whether on the road, or parked on the roadside. Wrapped in a choice of Passion Red, Ebony, or Candy Thunder Blue, the new ZX-14 makes blending into the scenery nearly impossible. It accelerates with ease, handles with assurance, and exudes an aura unmatched by anything else on the street.
This most powerful of all Kawasaki-branded motorcycles was created to do everything right. Right from the beginning.
Its aerodynamics reminds users that Kawasaki is indeed an aircraft maker. The blending of form, power, and handling characteristics have delivered a debut unit that is so balanced in all aspects that the word—ultimate—seems barely adequate to describe it.
This all new in-line four has evolved from the Ninja ZX-12R and features a bore and stroke of 84 x 61mm packed into a purposefully designed compact outline that minimizes engine width, leaving it at virtually the same width as the 12R.
A twist of the throttle delivers a seamless spread of torque that is so linear, the “power band,” per se, ceases to exist. Riders will pay particular attention to the impressive response that kicks in once the motor exceeds 6,000 rpm. Those that have ridden this newest Kawasaki flagship marvel at the torque response that makes pulling away from a total stop in almost any gear a possibility.
The engine uses a secondary balancer to tame unwanted vibrations, and a direct-actuation shift lever is lighter than conventional linkage-type set-ups, offering a more direct feel for the rider.
The ZX-14’s chassis design is every bit the equal of its power plant. It is an advanced version of Kawasaki’s unique aluminum monocoque frame, lightweight and very strong. This sophisticated approach gives the ZX-14 a responsive handling quality and incredible highway stability. By utilizing this frame technology, engineers were able to concentrate on delivering, as mentioned, a very slim, compact package. Inherently more rigid than twin-spar frames, and with the engine rigid-mounted, the monocoque’s strength is greatly increased.
With the engine positioned forward in the frame, engineers were able to carefully select the wheelbase and front/rear wheel weight balance to achieve both high speed stability and responsive handling. The ZX-14 uses an inverted 43mm cartridge fork and new Uni-Trak® linkage rear suspension to complement the highly rigid frame, thus offering both great controllability at high speeds and superb road holding when sport riding on twisting hill roads.
Does this ultimate combination of engine performance and chassis design make the Kawasaki ZX-14 rider-friendly?
The engineers and designers sought to combine the utmost elements of today’s motorcycle technologies, yet still provide a package that is both approachable—and usable. The ZX-14 delivers seamless power, a smooth ride, and friendly ergonomics. Together, these characteristics are manifested in a ride that is surprisingly non-intimidating, yet still maintains the heart of the rebel so much a part of Kawasaki’s brand heritage.
Offering a very relaxed sport riding position, it is compact without being cramped, and the bars are positioned so riders don’t have to stretch to reach them. The narrow engine, monocoque frame, and fuel tank make it easy for the rider to keep his knees close together in any riding conditions. Footpegs are low-set to give ample legroom and the low seat height and narrow seat front make planting feet on the ground when stopped a cinch.
And when the rider is stopped, the motorcycle will be the center of attention. Because the monocoque frame goes over the engine and doesn’t protrude through the fairing, the fairing design lines are uninterrupted, giving it a smooth, flowing appearance, from front to rear. Quadruple projector beam headlights adorn the ZX-14’s front cowl, with the outer lights containing position lamps and high beams. Low beams are located in the two center lamps. The front and rear turn signals are integrated into the fairing and rear cowl, and the all new LED tail lamp features a unique “V” design.
Other key features of the Kawasaki ZX-14:
Instrument cluster with easy-to-read, white-faced dual analogue speedometer and tachometer.
Shift indicator light and clutch engagement light.
Multi-function LCD digital display includes fuel gauge, gear indicator, dual trip meters, odometer, and clock.
Large diameter petal brake discs, radial mount front calipers and a radial pump brake master cylinder for impressive braking performance and superb feel.
Hydraulically operated clutch features a radial mount clutch master cylinder for worry-free, silky smooth clutch operation.
Fuel tank features a flush-surface tank cap.
Idling speed control system contributes to easy starting capability.
Lightweight Denso radiator with high-density cores provides efficient cooling.
Massive head pipe casting contributes to frame rigidity.
Airbox located in the frame, contributing to a very compact layout.
Engine and chassis components designed to maximize mass centralization.
Newly designed wheels feature center ribs which are slightly offset so that tire balance weights can be located at the wheel centerline.
All told, Kawasaki has once again brought its engineering and design expertise to the forefront of motorcycle creation. The Ninja ZX-14 lives up to its predecessors, and far surpasses them, as the meaning of the word “ultimate” has found a new definition.
FROM MOTORCYCLEDAILY.COM
Friday, October 27, 2006
Wednesday, October 25, 2006
WINTERIZING YOUR BIKE
Depending on the climate where a motorcycle rider lives, it may be necessary to store a bike during winter months. Each bike owner will tend to develop their own techniques for preparing the motorcycle for storage or winterizing their bike. I will try to provide different options and opinions on maintenance procedures for storing a motorcycle. Winterization varies from bike to bike so also refer to the motorcycle owner's manual before beginning.
Manufacturer's Recommendations (Extremely thorough)
1. Perform any scheduled maintenance on the motorcycle
2. Wash and wax the motorcycle top to bottom
3. Run the motorcycle engine for about five minutes to warm the oil. Drain the oil and replace with fresh oil.
4. Drain all fuel from the bike's gas tank and carburetor
5. For the injected version disconnect fuel pump power supply under tank. Start engine and run fuel line dry then drain the gas tank completely.
6. Remove the motorcycle's gas tank and pour in about one half pint of motor oil. Roll the oil around in the tank so that it coats it completely. Drain out the excess oil.
7. Remove the spark plug(s) and spray fogging oil into the cylinder(s). Crank the starter for a few seconds to coat the cylinder walls with the lubricant. Reinstall the motorcycle's spark plugs.
8. Reduce tire pressure by 20%
9. Set the motorcycle on stands to keep the front and rear tires off the ground.
10. Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces. Avoid getting oil on rubber surfaces or on the brakes.
11. Lubricate the motorcycle's chain, all cables, and all pivoting parts (foot peg joints, etc).
12. Remove the battery and store it away from moisture, sunlight and freezing temperatures.
13. Trickle charge the motorcycle battery about once a month during storage.
14. Tie a plastic bag over the motorcycle's muffler.
15. Cover the bike with a motorcycle cover.
There is no doubt that taking following all these steps will keep your motorcycle in great shape over the winter months. If you've got the patience to do it every year - good for you! Unfortunately, if the sun decides to show its face and you get a nice day for a ride in the middle of January, you'll have to spend all day putting your motorcycle back together just to ride. Most motorcycle enthusiasts I've spoke with have a more streamlined approach.
Normal Human Being Approach
1. Wash the motorcycle, wax it if water does not bead
2. Fill up the gas tank and add STA-BIL. Run the engine for a few minutes. By gassing up, you minimize the amount of air in the fuel tank. Air will accumulate moisture and can lead to rust. Filling the tank is a lot easier than emptying it, removing it and oiling it - plus you can ride a bike with a full tank of gas a lot easier than one that has its gas tank on a shelf somewhere. Adding a fuel stabilizer to the gas in the motorcycle is critical. Gas will break down faster than most people think. The fuel oxidizes and separates out and gummy deposits will build up and engine or carburetor parts can become varnished. Running the engine for a few minutes is important to make sure the treated fuel gets into the engine and carb. Some argue this is better than draining the gas completely since seals are designed to stay immersed and can dry out and become ineffective if the bike is without fluids too long.
3. Bring the battery inside or connect a battery tender. If the bike is in a heated garage, just leave it in the bike.
4. Put wood board or carpet scraps under the tires. The whole purpose of getting the bike off the ground is that moisture will build up where the rubber is in contact with a concrete garage floor. Moisture is bad for just about everything. Keep the tires on something that won't accumulate moisture and they should be fine.
5. Lubricate the drive chain - you should be doing this on a regular basis anyway.
6. If you want the low maintenance approach or live in an area where you are likely to get some good weather and ride, here is the abridged version.
7. Fill the motorcycle's gas tank and add STA-BIL
8. Start the motorcycle once a week and let it run a couple minutes.
Almost all motorcycle winterizing procedures revolve around avoiding moisture. Bikes that are run naturally heat up and burn off any moisture that may be trying to creep into the oil or the engine parts. Running the motorcycle also helps ensure that no fluids are stagnant too long so they don't have time to build up nasty deposits. You still may benefit from a trickle charger or you may be able to get away with just giving the battery a good charge once spring rolls around. Neglecting the battery may shorten its life a bit but batteries are pretty lazy and eventually need replacing no matter what you do. Following the manufacturer's rules is always best but for many it just is not practical. In the end, it is better to find a winterizing technique that you will diligently follow through with each year because any maintenance accomplished is better than the best good intentions you just never got around to.
From MotorcyleGiftShop.com
Manufacturer's Recommendations (Extremely thorough)
1. Perform any scheduled maintenance on the motorcycle
2. Wash and wax the motorcycle top to bottom
3. Run the motorcycle engine for about five minutes to warm the oil. Drain the oil and replace with fresh oil.
4. Drain all fuel from the bike's gas tank and carburetor
5. For the injected version disconnect fuel pump power supply under tank. Start engine and run fuel line dry then drain the gas tank completely.
6. Remove the motorcycle's gas tank and pour in about one half pint of motor oil. Roll the oil around in the tank so that it coats it completely. Drain out the excess oil.
7. Remove the spark plug(s) and spray fogging oil into the cylinder(s). Crank the starter for a few seconds to coat the cylinder walls with the lubricant. Reinstall the motorcycle's spark plugs.
8. Reduce tire pressure by 20%
9. Set the motorcycle on stands to keep the front and rear tires off the ground.
10. Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces. Avoid getting oil on rubber surfaces or on the brakes.
11. Lubricate the motorcycle's chain, all cables, and all pivoting parts (foot peg joints, etc).
12. Remove the battery and store it away from moisture, sunlight and freezing temperatures.
13. Trickle charge the motorcycle battery about once a month during storage.
14. Tie a plastic bag over the motorcycle's muffler.
15. Cover the bike with a motorcycle cover.
There is no doubt that taking following all these steps will keep your motorcycle in great shape over the winter months. If you've got the patience to do it every year - good for you! Unfortunately, if the sun decides to show its face and you get a nice day for a ride in the middle of January, you'll have to spend all day putting your motorcycle back together just to ride. Most motorcycle enthusiasts I've spoke with have a more streamlined approach.
Normal Human Being Approach
1. Wash the motorcycle, wax it if water does not bead
2. Fill up the gas tank and add STA-BIL. Run the engine for a few minutes. By gassing up, you minimize the amount of air in the fuel tank. Air will accumulate moisture and can lead to rust. Filling the tank is a lot easier than emptying it, removing it and oiling it - plus you can ride a bike with a full tank of gas a lot easier than one that has its gas tank on a shelf somewhere. Adding a fuel stabilizer to the gas in the motorcycle is critical. Gas will break down faster than most people think. The fuel oxidizes and separates out and gummy deposits will build up and engine or carburetor parts can become varnished. Running the engine for a few minutes is important to make sure the treated fuel gets into the engine and carb. Some argue this is better than draining the gas completely since seals are designed to stay immersed and can dry out and become ineffective if the bike is without fluids too long.
3. Bring the battery inside or connect a battery tender. If the bike is in a heated garage, just leave it in the bike.
4. Put wood board or carpet scraps under the tires. The whole purpose of getting the bike off the ground is that moisture will build up where the rubber is in contact with a concrete garage floor. Moisture is bad for just about everything. Keep the tires on something that won't accumulate moisture and they should be fine.
5. Lubricate the drive chain - you should be doing this on a regular basis anyway.
6. If you want the low maintenance approach or live in an area where you are likely to get some good weather and ride, here is the abridged version.
7. Fill the motorcycle's gas tank and add STA-BIL
8. Start the motorcycle once a week and let it run a couple minutes.
Almost all motorcycle winterizing procedures revolve around avoiding moisture. Bikes that are run naturally heat up and burn off any moisture that may be trying to creep into the oil or the engine parts. Running the motorcycle also helps ensure that no fluids are stagnant too long so they don't have time to build up nasty deposits. You still may benefit from a trickle charger or you may be able to get away with just giving the battery a good charge once spring rolls around. Neglecting the battery may shorten its life a bit but batteries are pretty lazy and eventually need replacing no matter what you do. Following the manufacturer's rules is always best but for many it just is not practical. In the end, it is better to find a winterizing technique that you will diligently follow through with each year because any maintenance accomplished is better than the best good intentions you just never got around to.
From MotorcyleGiftShop.com
Sunday, October 22, 2006
06 R6 REVIEW
I recently, about a month and a half ago, purchased the all new Yamaha R6 in Yamaha Team Blue, and this has been my first bike that I have owned and operated. I have ridden a host of other bikes including a 2001 Katana, a 1999 and 2003 Honda Shadow, and a 2006 Honda Nighthawk, but let me tell you, this is a monster of a bike.
The first thing I noted when I rode it off the lot was the slight lack of low end torque. It is obvious that this bike was meant to scream, but down under about 5,000 rpm, it feels a bit sluggish. Believe me, there are about three speeds on this bike, and they all associate to the movie "Spaceballs." Light speed is below 5,000 rpm, because you still go hecka fast under that engine speed, and it is more than enough to get you around. Between 5,000 and 10,000 rpm is ridiculous speed, because once you hit around 5,000 rpm, it kicks you back, and you think to yourself "Wow, this has got some power." Then between 10,000 and 16,000 rpm, that is what I call ludicrous speed. You go so fast so quickly, you find yourself exceeding the speed limit in under two seconds, even on the freeway.
FROM HTTP://MOTORCYCLES.ABOUT.COM
The first thing I noted when I rode it off the lot was the slight lack of low end torque. It is obvious that this bike was meant to scream, but down under about 5,000 rpm, it feels a bit sluggish. Believe me, there are about three speeds on this bike, and they all associate to the movie "Spaceballs." Light speed is below 5,000 rpm, because you still go hecka fast under that engine speed, and it is more than enough to get you around. Between 5,000 and 10,000 rpm is ridiculous speed, because once you hit around 5,000 rpm, it kicks you back, and you think to yourself "Wow, this has got some power." Then between 10,000 and 16,000 rpm, that is what I call ludicrous speed. You go so fast so quickly, you find yourself exceeding the speed limit in under two seconds, even on the freeway.
FROM HTTP://MOTORCYCLES.ABOUT.COM
Low Cost......Better Performance?
For all the money spent on upgrade engine performance parts, many riders overlook gearing which is a much simpler and inexpensive upgrade that can boost their motorcycle's acceleration. For a portion of the cost of a quality exhaust system, your acceleration from different speeds in every gear will increase significantly. You can even drop almost half a second from the quarter-mile and even add some mph all from changing your sprockets. By changing front and rear sprockets you can alter your motorcycle's final drive ratio, which then determines wheel speed for a given rpm. The term gearing ratio refers to the ratio of rear to front sprockets. Substituting a larger front or smaller rear sprocket lowers the ratio (also referred to as "taller" gearing) and there will be more speed for a given engine rpm. On the other hand, a smaller front or larger rear sprocket gives less speed for a given rpm (also referred to as "shorter" gearing).
From Hyperformanceparts.com
From Hyperformanceparts.com
07 GSXR 750 Review
Building on the passion and dedication found in all GSX-R machines, the ‘07 GSX-R750 combines the outstanding size and handling of a 600 with the mind-numbing performance of a liter-class machine. The GSX-R750 utilizes a compact chassis, complete with an aluminum-alloy twin-spar frame built with optimum rigidity and maximum handling performance in mind. Rake and trail specifications have been chosen for razor sharp handling and the aluminum frame uses five cast sections for maximum control during production.
Forks are inverted 41mm Showa units with rebound, compression and preload adjustability for maximum rider control and a carbonized titanium fork coating for reduced friction losses of 15 percent. A braced aluminum swingarm works with a Showa rear shock absorber and an innovative rear linkage system with a forged aluminum link that pivots on the swingarm itself with a one-piece forged aluminum link rod connected to the frame. The rear shock absorber features adjustable preload and rebound settings along with adjustable high and low speed compression settings for optimum suspension tuning. Brakes feature a radial pump master cylinder and 310mm rotors up front and a lightweight single piston rear caliper.
Powering the GSX-R750 is a 749cc inline, water cooled, DOHC, four-cylinder engine with Suzuki fuel injection and an ultra-compact under-engine exhaust system. Bore and stroke measurements are 70.0mm x 48.7 with a compression ration of 12.5:1 and twin injector, 42mm Suzuki Dual Throttle Valve fuel injectors provide fuel and unmatched throttle control. Connecting rods are shotpeened chrome-moly steel and utilize a crankshaft designed with increased inertia for improved cornering performance and stability. Downshifts are a breeze with the proven slipper clutch system as found on the powerful GSX-R1000.
In an effort to maximize mass centralization for optimum handling performance, the GSX-R750 utilizes an innovative under-engine exhaust chamber. The all-new system offers the ultimate benefits of mass centralization with the exhaust system mounted completely under the engine, and provides an aggressive new look for the GSX-R750. The new exhaust system also uses the proven Suzuki Exhaust Tuning system for maximum torque.
Countless hours of wind tunnel testing have helped shape the look of the GSX-R750 resulting in a reduction in frontal area, decreased drag and a sharp overall look. The compact front fairing features an aggressive design, and when combined with the sharply styled fuel tank, upswept tail section with integrated turn signals creates an unmistakable and purposeful new look for the GSX-R750. All this combined with the new under-engine exhaust system create an aggressive and stylish look for the GSX-R750 along with unmatched aerodynamic performance.
It is possible to have it all with the GSX-R750. It is the perfect balance of unmistakable style, unmatched engine performance and world class handling. The 2007 GSX-R750 – the legacy continues.
AT A GLANCE
Suggested Retail: $10,199.00Engine
Type: Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC
Bore and Stroke: 70.0mm x 48.7 mm
Front Brake: Dual Hydraulic Disc
Rear Brake: Single Hydraulic Disc
Wheelbase: 55.1 inches (1400 mm)
Dry Weight: 359 lbs. (163 kg), 361 lbs. (164 kg) CA model
From SportRider.com
Forks are inverted 41mm Showa units with rebound, compression and preload adjustability for maximum rider control and a carbonized titanium fork coating for reduced friction losses of 15 percent. A braced aluminum swingarm works with a Showa rear shock absorber and an innovative rear linkage system with a forged aluminum link that pivots on the swingarm itself with a one-piece forged aluminum link rod connected to the frame. The rear shock absorber features adjustable preload and rebound settings along with adjustable high and low speed compression settings for optimum suspension tuning. Brakes feature a radial pump master cylinder and 310mm rotors up front and a lightweight single piston rear caliper.
Powering the GSX-R750 is a 749cc inline, water cooled, DOHC, four-cylinder engine with Suzuki fuel injection and an ultra-compact under-engine exhaust system. Bore and stroke measurements are 70.0mm x 48.7 with a compression ration of 12.5:1 and twin injector, 42mm Suzuki Dual Throttle Valve fuel injectors provide fuel and unmatched throttle control. Connecting rods are shotpeened chrome-moly steel and utilize a crankshaft designed with increased inertia for improved cornering performance and stability. Downshifts are a breeze with the proven slipper clutch system as found on the powerful GSX-R1000.
In an effort to maximize mass centralization for optimum handling performance, the GSX-R750 utilizes an innovative under-engine exhaust chamber. The all-new system offers the ultimate benefits of mass centralization with the exhaust system mounted completely under the engine, and provides an aggressive new look for the GSX-R750. The new exhaust system also uses the proven Suzuki Exhaust Tuning system for maximum torque.
Countless hours of wind tunnel testing have helped shape the look of the GSX-R750 resulting in a reduction in frontal area, decreased drag and a sharp overall look. The compact front fairing features an aggressive design, and when combined with the sharply styled fuel tank, upswept tail section with integrated turn signals creates an unmistakable and purposeful new look for the GSX-R750. All this combined with the new under-engine exhaust system create an aggressive and stylish look for the GSX-R750 along with unmatched aerodynamic performance.
It is possible to have it all with the GSX-R750. It is the perfect balance of unmistakable style, unmatched engine performance and world class handling. The 2007 GSX-R750 – the legacy continues.
AT A GLANCE
Suggested Retail: $10,199.00Engine
Type: Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC
Bore and Stroke: 70.0mm x 48.7 mm
Front Brake: Dual Hydraulic Disc
Rear Brake: Single Hydraulic Disc
Wheelbase: 55.1 inches (1400 mm)
Dry Weight: 359 lbs. (163 kg), 361 lbs. (164 kg) CA model
From SportRider.com
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